Down the rabbit hole again. There are almost 2 months and 12000 kilometers between us and the last time that we updated this blog in New Zealand. It's going to be long and messy. I've probably not done the rest of our tip justice but lets get started . . . . . . .
- – New Zealand:
The last time we chatted we were on our way back from the South to the North Island.
We spent another 2 nights in Wellington. The weather had improved and was not as cold so we were happy campers :)
We caught a cable car from Lambton quay in the business district to Botanical gardens in the morning. It's a really old (1898) and interesting cable car that passes by the University so there was a fun mix of tourists, university students and locals on their way up the hill. I reckon that would be a frikkin cool way to commute to University everyday. There were so many South Africans in our car that it was hard not to think that you were in South Africa again – but on any game day there was an influx of the teams supporters.
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| View over Wellington |
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| Walk along the harbor |
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| Getting ready for some rugga |
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| Go bokke |
We also spent some time with Roy and Janet, family friends that had moved to New Zealand many a moon ago. Was really nice to chat to people who have been through a similar transition as Adele and I. We enjoyed a delicious lunch, some great NZ beer (I really enjoyed their local brews) and some fantastic company at the Wellington Harbor before taking a nice walk along the edge of the harbor and having some of the best ice cream that I have ever experienced.
Our second game in Wellington, South africa vs Fiji, was on the night before we left. Compared to the first game it was less cold and earlier. Also Adele and I had rested and did not feel like the walking dead anymore so conditions were already better. We were all a bit nervous for Fiji. Roy had repeatedly said the day before, “ beware of fiji” and we were anticipating a bruiser of a game.
There was an awesome vibe at the game. Most of the home crowd were supporting Fiji and there is a huge Polynesian population in New Zealand so lots of atmosphere and healthy banter.
This was a really good game for us and I think that after this great win we were starting to feel that maybe we actually had a chance in this world cup.
After Wellington we went to Kapiti island. Kapiti island is on the South West coast near Otaka. There are a limited amount of people who can visit the island every day so was really a special trip. My dad had booked the tour months before and his excitement was tangible and infectious. My parents and Adele are bird nuts and everyone was very excited to be visiting this bird sanctuary.
New Zealand has no natural predators and all the rats, rabbits, stoats etc. have been brought in by the early Polynesians and then later, by the Europeans. Rats were bought on the Polynesian sea vessels for snack time and other mammals like the stoat or possum where brought to be hunted. (I think the only native land mammal is a bat – I stand to be corrected).
Anyhow, as a result of introduction of these mammals as well as a fair amount of hunting done by another erect, funny, pink species of mammal the bird populations took a huge knock. All over New Zealand there are areas designated as Kiwi sanctuaries or bird habitats. No dogs allowed and other animals are trapped and hunted. Kapiti island is one such sanctuary and was designated mammal free until recently when they found and killed 2 stoats. Again, I stand corrected, but I believe that they will be designated a safe island again in 2015 if there are no more furry creatures found between now and then.
I am rambling a bit but the whole history of the island is very interesting. Inhabited by Te Rauparaha at one stage. This famous Mauri chief was a fierce warrior and great leader. The Haka that the All Blacks perform before every game is Te Rauparaha's haka. While we were walking around the island our guide pointed out dark, black patches of earth and asked us to guess what they were. No one could guess correctly and she explained that when the Mauri went on war parties or there was a great battle they would bring back the dead and/or prisoners and would feast for days on their meat before the meat went off. The ground has been blackened due to the cooking fats and human juices. As we looked and walked around the island we noticed hundreds on thousands of these black patches – crazy!
Apparently when they went on trips they would also take a few slaves with them and would knock them off as they got hungry. Crazy! At the time though people, along with birds, was their major source of protein.
But back to the island. So the island was turned into a bird sanctuary but was full of possums, rats etc. In 1980 war was declared on mammals on the island. I can't remember the exact figures but over 5 – 10 years 10 of thousands of mammals were destroyed in an almost militant Gestapo-esq style. This was done with air drops with poisonous bait, shootings, dogs and all sorts of snares.
We went to the Island by boat and had a wonderful day walking around and bird watching. A few of the interesting birds we saw were the: Weka, this flightless bird has an interest in shiny things and we were warned that these birds are known to steal all sorts of items and even to pull down zips to get into bags; the Kaka, one of New Zealands native parrots. These clever birds were very inquisitive, greeted us when we arrived and followed us to the lodge; Takahe, this giant purple bird looks a little like something out of Sesamy Street. These birds are especially special because there are only 225 in the world.
One thing we really enjoyed was that the guide spoke to the birds in Mauri whenever she saw a new bird. The island is partly inhabited and controlled by Mauri who have an ancestral claim to the island. Their directions to the guides is to call to the birds in their native language so they do not forget who they are and their connection to the mauri culture – I thought this was quite nice.
We had lunch with the Mauri who live on the island. They were incredibly friendly and knowledgeable. They had many wonderful stories and asked us many questions about South Africa while we enjoyed a feast of delicious local sweet meats.
The walking, the birds and wonderful island and sea scenery made for a fantastic day.
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| Takahe |
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| Kaka |
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| Twitching |
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| They ate what where?!!! |
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| Wood pigeon |
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| Coastal walk |
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| Good day at the office |
From Kapiti we stayed the night in Otaki. We watched rugby and stayed in a very empty caravan park – which was a bit creepy.
We also had one of the best meals of our trip at the camp's restaurant. I had some delicious, grade A lamb. Lamb is not incredibly common in Canada and a lot of people we've met have never eaten lamb. Suffice to say that whenever I got a chance I ordered lamb and was seldom disappointed. (This blogging thing is really a bugger though because all I can think of is lamb now).
Otaki has a crazy amount of factory outlets and before we left we filled our bags with many warm goodies from Kathmandu and icebreaker.
From Kapiti we went to Taupo. We didn't have the best weather so we didn't get the most out of Taupo. Taupo is built on a lake and is within spitting distance from ski hills. As such there are all sorts of adventure activities including speed boating, skiing and snowboarding, bungy jumping etc.
Taupo is part of a large geothermal area that stretches past Rotorua- our next stop. The holiday park we stayed in was very cool because they had a few hot water pools. My dad and I enjoyed a soak with the many other South Africans and other fans talking rugby. Was fun and festive.
We really liked Taupo. South Africa and Ireland stayed in Taupo at certain times.
We were lucky enough to see Bryan O Driscoll and a few other Irish players. There was a really fun hole-in-one competition over Taupo lake. I like to tell people that we enjoyed a game of golf with Bryan O Driscoll however it was more like: Ryan and Richard hitting golf balls next to the Irish while Ryan looks really sheepish and tries to get Adele to take pics of the Irish in the background.
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| Taupo |
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| Playing golf with the Irish |
From Taupo we travelled up to Rotorua. Along the way we stopped at a thermal park called, Craters of the moon. Was really interesting with hot bubbling mud, steamy craters and boiling water. I believe that Mauri used to use the geothermal heat for all sorts of things from cooking to cleaning and bathing. Some of the water is really hot and there are all sorts of warnings not to stray off the path.
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| Craters of the moon |
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| Kuyashisa |
Rotorua itself is an interesting place. Initially of cultural significance to the Mauri, later the site of a large volcanic eruption and now a bustling tourist Mecca.
Some of the highlights of Rotorua
- – Listening to my Dad tell people we were on the way to Rotokaka, Rototuta and Roter rooter.
- – There are a few cultural evenings/presentations in Rotorua. We decided to go to the Matai cultural experience based on Cecily and John Hornes advice. To say that it was awesome would be a gross understatement. The evening started with a funny introduction and explanation of the evening – the host was brilliant and had us all laughing. Then we watched how they use the geothermal steam to slowly cook lamb and beef and potatoes and vegetables and all sorts of awesome things for our dinner (Hungry again dammit!).
- – Following this we watched the Mauri come up river on their war canoe chanting and sticking out their tongues at us. We followed them up into the hall where we met the chief, watched cultural dances, a haka, had explanations of their weapons and tattoos. Was very, very cool.
- – Dinner was delicious and after dinner the evening was finished perfectly with a visit to a Kiwi enclosure. Saw a few brown kiwi, a few owls, Parrots etc.
- – Thoroughly enjoyed a museum in Rotorua and another cultural village. Got a lot of really interesting information about the Mauri and their culture. Their was a really good movie on at the museum. Had to do with a Mauri battalion in the 2nd world war. They were one of the most successful battalions but also had one of the highest casualty rates. There are stories of them doing hakas on the battlefield and charging enemies with their tongues out – specialized in hand to hand combat. Part of their reason for being in the war was to prove their solidarity to England – a, we'll do our part type of thing, prove our worth to the crown.
- – Another highlight of Rotorua was the Pohutu geyser. It shoots up to 30 metres and is the most active geyser in New Zealand and the Southern hemisphere. Not like old faithful and not that regular. We had quite a wait before it went off. Before it's about to go off there is a smaller geyser that erupts for a while called the, prince of Wales feathers geyser.
- – We asked the tour guide is she was worried living on such an active geothermal area. She said that not really but if there was ever a day when the geysers stopped firing and the mud stopped bubbling then she was out of there.
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| Nom nom nom |
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| Scary mo fo |
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| Bubbling mud - awesome |
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| Pohutu geyser with the prince of wales feathers on the right |
After Rotorua we made our way up to Cecily and Martin in Tauranga. Tauranga is on the East coast in an area called the bay of plenty. Very pretty.
Enjoyed a really nice long walk up the mount Manganui with fantastic city and sea views. Had a few great meals and enjoyed Martin and Cecily, and her brothers company.
Martin is South African but has been in NZ for many years and is very patriotic. He's also very handy and made a giant rugby ball which lights up at night. They have great views from their house and the ball can be seen for quit a distance. His car is also decorated in his rugby teams colors – as I said he's very patriotic and incredibly rugby mad. Was lekker.
The next day we tried our hand at Blo Karting. This fun sport is a mixture of wind surfing and go-karting. We all had a lot of fun. Was really impressed with my mom for giving it a good go and with my dad who had some mad skill. He'd sail past us regularly with a glib smile on his face.
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| View of Tauranga and the ball |
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| Fan? |
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| Lekker dinner |
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| About to hike the mount |
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| Blo Karting |
After Tauranga we made our way up to Takapuna on the North Shore of Auckland. Spent 2 nights in Takapuna. Really liked the camp site here. Not the best grounds but the grounds are right on the sea with a wonderful and busy promenade.
Was really impressed with Auckland. Everything was user friendly and clean. Would put it into my top 5 cities in the world.
A few of the highlights of Takapuna and Auckland where
- – walking down Queen street. Lots of shops and very bustling. There were all sorts of rubgy fans walking around. I was wearing a Canada jersey and received high 5's and all sorts of compliments. They really seem to enjoy the Canadians.
- – We walked all the way down Queen street to Eden Park.
- – Caught a really nice ferry between Davenport, on the North shore, and Auckland. Auckland is a very pretty city.
- – My Dad did a reverse bungi jump with me. He's not really an adrenalin junky and it was a lot of fun to do with him. Watch the video – his response is hilarious.
- – Auckland area has 2 stadiums. Eden park and North Harbor. We watched our third game at North Harbor. We played Namibia and absolutely gave them a thrashing. Kind of feel sorry for our neighbours because they actually do quite well considering they're amateurs. They had really good crowd support and, although one sided, was a really enjoyable game.
- – The sky tower was also really special. Had panoramic views of Auckland. Have a terrible fear of heights. Was both alarming and awesome.
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| Auckland |
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| Scary stuff |
So by this stage we've driven from the South Island to Auckland. The next few days of our trip focused on the North Island. The Northlands is a bit more remote. Less people and less infrastructure than the rest of the North Island.
We started off driving from Takapuna to Paihia in the bay of islands. We stopped a number of times on our trip.
We stopped at Whangerai and had lunch. This little harbor was quite pretty and there are many, many boats. Apparently it's a really popular stop for wealthy sailors.
We also stopped at a honey factory which was really interesting with 3 giant bee hives built against clear glass in their shop so you can see bees working and hatching. You can also see the queen bee and the lady in the shop was very helpful and informative. Again, the people in New Zealand where incredibly interesting and helpful.
The last stop on our trip was in a small town. Can't remember the name of the town but it was a small market with all sorts of delicacies and interesting brik a brak.
Eventually we did arrive in Paihia. This area, called the bay of islands, is as it suggests made up of many islands. It is a really gorgeous area. Also famous for it's fishing. The worlds second oldest game fishing club is located on the other side of the bay in Russel.
Watched some rugby and had an interesting some with a few locals and a few other foreigners. The town was very quiet and although this is a popular summer destination it was far from bustling.
The next day we caught a ferry across to Russel. This small village used to be called the, hell hole of the Pacific. Quite the dive in it's day. Now it's a very quaint and interesting town. Some of the interesting sites where the oldest Church in New Zealand, the grave of the first white woman to have been born in New Zealand and a very interesting museum which housed a replica ship of captain Cook's ship and other interesting artefacts.
Caught the ferry back to Paihai and just in time too because it started raining again.
Spent the rest of the day at the Waitangi treaty grounds. This interesting site showed the history of the treaty between the Europeans and the Mauri. Was really interesting. Some of the most interesting parts were: the paintings of the Mauri chiefs with their elaborate tattoos, 2 giant war canoes and the treaty hall.
The treaty hall was amazing with wall to wall wood carvings. Each displaying a different tribe and each unique and beautiful. Could have spent hours here.
The war canoes, I believe, are the largest in the world. I think 80 people can paddle it and 55 people can ride on the canoe. It was created in 1940 and ridden to celebrate the centenary of the signing of the treaty.
At the treaty grounds we saw a lot of the iconic New Zealand ferns. Very cool.
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| Bay of islands |
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| Russell |
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| Fernando |
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| Giant war canoe |
After Paihia we travelled to Kerikeri. Remember that we had an awesome campsite and that we enjoyed another wine tasting. Had another great supper in a little pub.
From Kerikeri we took a scenic trip past Matauri and Tauranga bay. The Northlands are definitely more remote and isolated. Far fewer tourists and camping vans. A different vibe but equally as lekker.
Stopped at Manganui and had some amazing fish and chips at the, world famous fish and chips. Almost ate my fingers off. Was a great meal with great views.
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| Mom after the roods |
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| Nom nom nom nom |
Spent the next night at Ahipara on the North Western coast. Ahipara is at the start of 90 mile beach – which is actually 55 miles long. Had a wonderful sunset walk on the beach. Watched fisherman bringing in a torpedo. This “torpedo” has multiple hooks on it, it shot into the sea and then pulled in with fish on the line.
The camp we stayed in also had ping pong. Had some epic games of ping pong with Adele and my Dad. Played late that night until they switched the lights off.
Makes me so happy thinking about this. Reminds me of school and playing ping pong with friends.
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| Fishing 90 mile beach |
The next day my family treated me to a really special birthday breakfast. We had a really enjoyable drive from Ahipara to Rawene and across the Ferry and then through the Waipoua forest to Matakone.
Waipoua forest is really special. It is the home to many Kauri trees. These beautiful and large trees are getting fewer and fewer because they have a really delicate root system, have been felled for furniture and due to the change in vegetation and introduction of mammal species. They are really magnificent trees and it is sad to think that they are not as abundant as before.
The largest tree at the moment is called Tane Mahuta. If you remember from the previous blog Tane Mahuta was one of the children of earth mother and sky father. He's the child who ultimately grew and pushed them apart and is the god of the forests and birds.
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| Tane Mahuta |
We stayed in a really interesting camp site on the top of a hill with views over a lagoon. There were beautiful rolling hills and it reminded me a lot of the midlands. Had a long walk around the area. Ate some delicious home made pies and took over the camp site kitchen. Was one of my favorite camps and I can't tell you why exactly why other than it was just nice to relax and spend time together here.
The next day we went to the Kauri museum in Matakone. The Kauri trees cannot be cut down now but they are allowed to be dug up in swamps. The museum contained the history of the previous logging operations, current mining of old Kauri and other treasures related to Kauri.
Because these trees cannot be cut down it is a rare wood and has a lot of value. Again this museum was full of wood and sap and was really, really interesting. These guys were hard workers and very rough – the pictures and stories remind me of the gold pioneers in Johannesburg.
From Matakone we drove from Matakone to Orewa for lunch and then back to Takapuna.
Spent another 3 wonderful nights in Takapuna and Auckland. Highlights included:
- – A trip to Waheke island. This awesome offshore island is home to many award winning wineyards. We enjoyed a beer tasting at Wild on Waheke. Had an interesting lunch and probably the best red wine that we've had at Stonyridge looking out over their vineyards and enjoyed a lot of walking.
- – The weather had improved substantially and we walked to the one set of vineyards in the heat. Was a really enjoyable walk but was long and hot and when we arrived at the Mudbricks vineyard the wine was like nectar. Brought back a bottle or 2 for a few friends here. The scenery was also spectacular with the restaurant and tasting room overlooking green fields down to the sea.
- – From Mudbrick we walked back to the Cable bay vineyard. This vineyard also was set against a spectacular backdrop. The wine was delicious and we got happily pickled in the sun eating all sorts of delicious snacks and enjoying a bottle or 2 of wine.
- – The walk back to the town was a little less straight than the walk there but it was a great day.
- – Spent a lot of time shopping in Auckland. Also spent some time in the aqueduct harbor which had great eating spots and more beautiful harbor views. Wanted to bungi jump of the harbor bridge but there was no space unfortunately. This is the oldest bridge jump with water touch in the world.
- – We painted our faces for the last game. I started with my moms's face then Adele did mine. After that I did Adeles and my Dads. In a short while another 3 guys asked if I could paint their faces and we sat there happily painting for a few hours. Was nice to chat to some of the other South African supporters and we had a great time.
- – The last game was not a great game of rugby from the South African side. The Somoans had a huge fan base and they were mostly dressed as Somoan superheros. Was a great vibe in spite of our play. Almost moered by the guy in front of us but that's a story for another time. Was a great way to end of f our New Zealand trip.
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| Takapuna |
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| Wild on Waheke beer tasting |
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| Stonyridge |
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| Working up a thirst |
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| Mudbrick view from cellar |
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| Cable bay |
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| Ferry back to Auckland |
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| Bokke! |
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| Jy's stout wena |
My parents dropped us off at the airport the next day and we left. Had a fantastic holiday.
Thanks to my Dad for organizing an awesome trip. Thanks to Adele and my Mom for just being awesome and making a great holiday.
Was highly impressed with New Zealand and the people. Found the history fascinating. Went above and beyond what I thought it would be like and I'd happily go back again.
Was really impressed that we lived in such a confined space, did so much and did not kill each other. There were definitely 1 or 2 strained days but all in all it was a fantastic holiday and I'd happily travel in a camper with my parents any day.
- – Back to Canada:
So now we are here back in Canada.
Got back to a huge amount of work and Duncan left for a course so work has been crazy for the last few weeks. At some times I almost felt like I was drowning but have pulled through and Duncan is back on Monday so the world is back to normal again.
I have to say that I love my job and my patients.
Have done so much in the last few weeks. Here are a few highlights in no specific order
– Halloween: Halloween is a fantastic holiday. Last year our neighbours invited us around and we carved pumpkins for the first time. We had a fantastic time with them and at the time were very grateful to them. This year they invited us again. We also wanted to give Duncs and Chan the whole pumpkin carving experience and we made plans to carve pumpkins with Jess and Steve.
All in all we carved pumpkins on 3 separate nights and carved 7 pumpkins between the 2 of us. 15 between all of us.
Our front yard was decorated with tomb stones again. We also had a row of awesome pumpkins.
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| Jess and Adele |
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| Chan at work |
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| Freestyling |
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| Adele choosing her pattern |
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| Logan |
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| Shawna, Rick and Marissa |
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| I hate you guys. Darth bagel |
– Chan helped us hand out Candy and we had 102 trick or treaters. Lots of fun.
– Went 5 pin bowling in Raymond with Mike and his beautiful family. Lots of fun. Really great people and we rented the entire 2 lane venue – high rollers :). Was a lot of fun, silly competition.
– It has started snowing again. Yay! There is not nearly as much snow as last year this time but the world is white again and it's awesome. The thought of snowboarding, ice fishing and stepping on wonderful crunchy snow makes my heart very happy. Most people spit at me when I say this. The Canadian s and f words ar “snow” and “flurry”.
– Towards the end of Autumn there is a corn field that is cut into a giant maze. This is where we got a few of our pumpkins. Spent a few hours of fun getting lost. Lots of kids running around and having fun.
This year they cut the maze into the shape of a compass accurate to North, South, East and West. Was pretty impressive.
– Bagel was not the best behaved dog after we got back. Took him a few days to get back to normal. He too is loving the snow being back.
– Hockey has started again. Watching and actually, kind of, understanding what's going on now. Our team is sucking this yr but that's ok.
– Our neighbours son is 9 and is involved in little league hockey. Have been watching him play for a few weekends. They have just the right amount of skill and guts to make it very entertaining.
– Our neigbours have become really good friends and have invited us to birthday parties and all sorts of events. They are big fans of senor Bagel and have really been good to us.
They have fantastic kids and they're just awesome.
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| Comfy bagel? |
– Bought ice skates this week. Going to try go once or twice a week. Pretty soon the lakes will be frozen and ready to skate on.
– Adele loves Christmas. If she could we'd have our tree up all year. Have put up our Christmas tree with the help of Chantal. We won't be here for the most of Christmas. Makes it nice and festive in our house.
- Have also bought Adele a keyboard for Christmas. She's teaching me to play piano and is sharpening her skills. The house we're renting really feels like home now.
– Winter is awesome because there are all sorts of evening lecture series sponsored by the drug companies. You get a free dinner, get to meet other docs and learn a bit at the same time. It's a great system.
And that's mostly that. Have been in Lethbridge for almost a year and 2 months. Time has flown incredibly quickly.
Really enjoying life as usual!
Adele and I are going to Hawaii in 3 weeks. Then my parents, Neal and Mary are here for 3 weeks.
Have the most epic trip planned to Fernie, the northern lights, New York, Whistler and Vancouver.
Can't wait!
Getting close to Neal and Marys wedding too! So much to look forward to.
Sometimes we're really good and sometimes we really miss SA. We're still not a hundred percent sure what the future will bring but having fun figuring it out.
We look forward to chatting and to seeing you soon.
All our love
Ryan and Adele
